Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
